Country Sweater Vest
by Sally’s Backyard
I am in love with the ‘granny square.’ It’s just so versatile and the color combinations are endless. I am also a big fan of vests, so this pattern/’how-to’ combines both.
Obviously, I did not invent the granny square, but I will include the pattern I used for my square. This vest is made up of 8 squares—4 in the front, 4 in the back. Sizing and color choice will be entirely up to you. I determined my size (XL) by using my own measurements and those of a favorite sweater, approx. 38”-40”. These measurements were then simply translated to the size squares I needed. I did allow for some extra room—remember, a shirt or blouse will most likely be worn underneath the vest. The single crochet edgings added a bit to the length and width, too. I also put side slits on each side for comfort and to give the vest a bit of a tunic style—these can be easily done while assembling the piece. Have fun with this super easy vest. 🙂
Notes: My squares were 11” (10 rows); my finished vest size was approximately 23” x 23” (after rows of sc edging were added). There are probably as many joining techniques as there are types of granny squares. Use your preferred method.
Worsted Weight yarn
I used Naturally Caron Country (75% Acrylic, 25% Merino Wool, 185 yards/skein) in Spruce (3 skeins), Spice House (1 skein) and Ocean Spray (1 skein). The amount of yarn will vary depending on your size.
tapestry needle to weave in ends
sl st=slip stitch
Ch 4, sl st in 1st ch to make a loop. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc in ring. *ch 2, 3 dc in ring* repeat two more times between *. This will give you a total of 4 dc clusters, separated by ch 2-sp. Sl st in top of beginning ch 3 to join. Do not turn. Fasten off only if starting with a new color in next round (if using same color, continue to Step 2). If changing colors, fasten off first color, then using new color, sl st with new color in any ch 2-sp. Ch 3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc in same ch 2-sp. (forms corner) then continue as below, starting with * in Step 2.
To begin next row, using same color, sl st in next st, skip next st, then sl st in ch 2-sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3dc, all in ch 2-sp. (forms first corner). *Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 2-sp, ch 2, 3dc* (forms 2nd corner). Repeat two more times between *. Sl st in top of beginning ch 3 to join.
Continue as follows: Sl st in next st, skip next st, then sl st in ch 2-sp. Ch 3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc, all in ch 2-sp (corner). *Ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp* continue in this manner between * until next corner. Then, 3dc, ch 2, 3d in ch 2-sp (corner). Continue as before between *, and repeat as before for corners. Sl st in top of beginning ch 3 to join.
Continue in this manner for each round until desired size of square is achieved. Mine are 10 rows (including 1st 4 groups of dc around ring), which made 11” squares. Again, use your measurements to determine your size.
Before assembling, I did a row of sc around each square.
Back: Join 4 squares together, then work 1 row of sc around entire group.
Front: Making a left and right side, join 2 squares together for each side. Work a row of sc around each group of 2 squares.
Joining front pieces to back:
Join front pieces to back one side at a time. For the shoulders, leave a space for the neck opening/front flaps to fold down in front to form ‘lapels.’ Mine are attached approx. 5” from shoulder to neck ‘opening.’ Again, this will vary depending on your size.
When joining sides of front to back, leave a space for arm holes. My arm openings are approx. 11” from the top of the shoulder down. Also, leave a space for side slits at the bottom of each side– approx. 2” unattached at the bottom of each side.
Weave in all ends.
Finishing (optional): buttons, a chain tie, a belt or simply left as is.
Copyright, July, 2010. Sally’s Backyard. www.sallysbackyard.com All rights reserved.